How fabric changes the way a farma cuts and hangs: stretch, weight, shrinkage and how much to buy.
The same paper farma can give two different garments in two different fabrics. Fabric decides how a blouse or chudi hangs, how easy it is to cut, and how it behaves in the wash. These are the things to think about before you buy.
Weight and drape
A heavy fabric holds its shape and suits structured cuts such as a princess cut or a katori blouse. A light fabric falls softly and suits gathers and flare. A very light fabric may need a lining.
Stretch
A paper pattern is drafted for a woven fabric with little stretch. If you use a stretchy fabric, the finished garment will fit more closely than the pattern allows, so test a piece first.
Shrinkage
Cotton and some blends shrink in the first wash. Wash and dry the fabric before cutting if the finished garment will be washed, so the blouse does not become a size smaller.
Pattern and print
Checks, stripes and large prints must be matched across seams, which takes extra fabric. Plain and small prints are the easiest to cut.
How much to buy
- Blouse: needs less fabric than a chudi; long sleeves or a back-open design need more.
- Chudi top: more for a flared top. An umbrella cut takes the most.
- Patiala pant: takes a great deal; see the pant guide.
Always check against your pattern's pieces, and buy a little extra for matching and mistakes.
Test before you cut
If the fabric is expensive, cut a test piece from cheap cloth first. Our cutting steps show how to lay out and cut.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need lining?
For a light or see-through fabric, usually yes.
Can I use the same farma for different fabrics?
Yes, but heavy and stretchy fabrics change the finished fit, so test first. Browse the full pattern range.